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The top and bottom lids can be printed flat side down without support. The middle section is trickier. I printed it peg side down with supports. The supports came off easily with some pliers but the finish is not the best (last picture). Printed with 3 perimeters and 50% infill on an Ender 3 V2 neo and creality PLA. The top and middle sections took about a day each, the bottom about 12 hours.

Note: The rims as-is have some wiggle room, but the friction from where the latches overhang gives a nice firm fit. Adjust “rim_tolerance” in the model file as needed.

I created two sets of keycaps that allow the user to press them more ergonomically. I use these sets for space bar and return. The keycap above the thumb cluster allows thumb to sit slightly towards the center point of two hands, whereas the keycap on the thumb cluster allows thumb to sit slightly away from the center point—giving a more comfortable angle for your thumbs.

Keycap plus holes came out slightly loose for me, but the keycaps were still usable. The mileage may vary depending on the printer and resolution. The wall of holes are really thin, so they are quite prone to crack as you insert them onto switches. I used a liquid resin that's provides more rigidity when cured. For finishing touches, I filed the keycap surface and edges using a dremel with small ceramic grinding ball head and medium to fine grain sandpapers for smoother and sculpted fit.

ZSA sells the "Zip Kit" with pieces to cover empty key sockets. But at USD$60, I decided to use my 3D printer and Fusion360 skills instead of my wallet to solve this issue. Introducing the Zipf Kit*: because sometimes number 2 is good enough.

Print as many or as few of these key socket covers as you need. They snap into place over the square holes in the Moonlander and spring-loaded arms hold them in place, just like the official Zip alternatives. They pry off with a little finesse.

I've included the design files for easy remixing :) Enjoy!

This version does not support using the tenting feature but that is planned for a future version, just need to learn 3d modeling, no biggie ;-)

I found this useful because I tend to move my keyboard around on my fairly small desk to do other things and having a fixed split is much easier on my muscle memory. Getting them the same distance and orientation from each other repeatedly after moving got annoying.

Hoping to figure out how to hinge the linking crossbar so that the tenting can still be used with the bracket attached. Possibly a mechanism, or just different models, for adjusting the angle of the two halves, this model places the two halves directly parallel to each other.

Uses original ZSA hardware to mount.

The tenting angle is 19 degrees - or slightly higher than the highest tenting level with the default tenting legs that come with the Moonlander

Unlike other tenting kits I've seen, this one attaches to the bottom of the keyboard using the mounting bracket on the bottom of the keyboard with 4 M2.6x8 screws.

The main advantage of this is a flat bottom surface which is easier to attach non-stick rubber pads to prevent movement of the keyboard (other leg-based kits tend to slide around in my experience) as well as the ability to remove the tenting legs entirely for a cleaner look.

I have the holes 19.5mm apart. This doesn't seem quite right; it's hard to get all 4 screws in, but I don't have the measuring tools to accurately measure this. I'd recommend not using this model, honestly. This is only here because people have asked, and it's enough to get started and refine later if you really need to put more than 2 screws in.

I used M2.5 screws. Some other things on Thingiverse recommend M2.6 screws. I have never seen such a screw and found M2.5 to be perfect. Your mileage may vary.

For extra stability, you can't tilt the thumb cluster down anymore. My first iteration of this design allowed that, but I don't use it and prefer the extra stability of the keyboard with the extra material. You can press the outermost thumb key as hard as you like, and the keyboard doesn't move. If you have big hands, this is not the item for you (but you can slice off the part that prevents movement of the thumb cluster ;).

You will need to mirror this in your slicer to make one for the left hand.

Due to some measurement error, the holes do not quite line up, and you can only get two screws in. I measured the hole spacing as 19.5mm, but it's clearly not.

Until ZSA comes up with their own solution, I decided to craft some legs to allow tenting of the keyboard and also allow the thumb cluster to move in its upper position. I have "medium" sized hands but I find the cluster is more comfortable up than down, especially for WASD.

Few disclaimers: Since there is no ratcheting mechanism, these will not be as secure as the other legs, however they appear to hold under normal palm/typing pressure with a "sane" amount of torque on the bolts. Also keep in mind there will be fewer threads grabbing the thumb cluster. As with any mod, use at your own risk.